The Ondowa Wrap

While at Squam Art Workshops this past June, I took Sarah Waldo Jagger's class sewing her Ondowa Wrap. Sarah recently released her pattern to the public, and what a beauty it is! This modern take a classic wrap dress flatters many figures, looks great in both prints and solids, and is easily modified for your personal style. Wear it as a studio smock, beach cover up, office attire or for a night on the town - truly a wardrobe staple!

The Ondowa Wrap, designed by Sarah Waldo JaggerShown here in Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen, Plum, 55% Linen 45% RayonPattern modifications: I chose to sew this garment without the shoulder caps. Check out Sarah's IG feed for the original desi…

The Ondowa Wrap, designed by Sarah Waldo Jagger

Shown here in Robert Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen, Plum, 55% Linen 45% Rayon

Pattern modifications: I chose to sew this garment without the shoulder caps. Check out Sarah's IG feed for the original design and options!  #sarahwaldopatterns #ondowawrap

Sarah's teaching style is relaxed and easy-going. She moved effortlessly from one student to the next, helping each of us where ever we were in the sewing process, and always with a smile. While we benefitted from her in-person tips and tricks, the pattern itself is very well written, clear and with many helpful photos. The garment has beautiful details, especially the collar. For me, the pocket construction was a fun surprise. What a wonderful teacher, designer, sewer and mom (follow Sarah's IG feed @starfishing). 

You can purchase The Ondowa Wrap at Sarah's shop: http://sarahwaldo.bigcartel.com/  

Find plenty of inspiration and options for making this pattern your own: #sarahwaldopatterns  #ondowawrap

Collar detail with contrasting batik binding, also used at the pockets. 

Collar detail with contrasting batik binding, also used at the pockets. 

Loving the double tie at the side, perfectly positioned for a flattering fit. Here, I used jersey strings.

Loving the double tie at the side, perfectly positioned for a flattering fit. Here, I used jersey strings.

This view shows the two vertical darts at the back. While they're not difficult to sew, Sarah had great tips for us to ensure accuracy. 

This view shows the two vertical darts at the back. While they're not difficult to sew, Sarah had great tips for us to ensure accuracy. 

The wrap shown in these photos is actually my second one. Not only was the first one so enjoyable to make, but my friend Angela Hoffman surprised me by modeling my first wrap throughout the Squam dining hall, looking amazing!!, so I had to make one especially for her. Thank you @angelalynn114! 

Of all of the splendid details this pattern holds, I felt the collar was the most satisfactory to make. 

Of all of the splendid details this pattern holds, I felt the collar was the most satisfactory to make. 

#MakeDoQuilt Challenge

In the spirit of the challenge, I've pulled from my fabric stash two feed sacks and some left over hand dyed silk noil. From my closet, I've pulled one dark teal blouse and a pair of red pants, both past their prime. 

In the spirit of the challenge, I've pulled from my fabric stash two feed sacks and some left over hand dyed silk noil. From my closet, I've pulled one dark teal blouse and a pair of red pants, both past their prime. 

If you're a quilter and are on Facebook or Instagram, you likely know about Sherri Lynn Wood's #MakeDoQuilt Challenge. I'm joining the challenge, and sincerely hope you will, too! 

In a nutshell, Sherri Lynn's challenge to quilt makers is to make at least one quilt in a year's time using only found textiles; for example, discarded clothing and household linens, garage sale and thrift shop finds, clothing swaps with friends, etc.. She states that you get extra points for salvaging the batting and backing, too! Read Sherri Lynn's post for all the details and thoughtful back story: http://daintytime.net/2016/08/11/make-do-challenge/

Her challenge resonates with me on a few levels: as a quilter who loves a challenge; as a dyer who is seeking best practices for our health and the earth's health; as a textile artist who wants to leave as small a footprint as possible. I'm both compelled and excited to participate! Plus, there's tons of inspiration already happening on Instagram, #MakeDoQuilt, by other talented quilters joining in. What a great idea - thank you Sherri Lynn Wood!

This challenge already has me approaching the quilt process in a new way. I'm keenly aware of the variety of textures and weights of the fabrics I've pulled (photo above). The quantity of each fabric now plays an integral and critical part of the design process, designing according to what I have. Quilt strategy at its best!  

Pursuing my interest in feeling closer to our quilting heritage, I'm looking to antique quilts for design inspiration. Here are three from "The American Quilt" by Roderick Kiracofe: 

Since making letters for a special commissioned quilt in December 2015, I've wanted to do more with words - perhaps piecing a beautiful quote or poem.  This challenge might be the perfect opportunity to get going! Inscription, 1874-18…

Since making letters for a special commissioned quilt in December 2015, I've wanted to do more with words - perhaps piecing a beautiful quote or poem.  This challenge might be the perfect opportunity to get going! 

Inscription, 1874-1876, made by Cornelia Catharine Vosburgh, Red Hook, NY

As a natural dyer, indigo quilts and Turkey Red quilts always steal my heart. From this challenge, I'd like to learn a new technique or a new block. The feathered star might be the ticket!Feathered Star, c.1840-1860, found in eastern Ohio; cottons, …

As a natural dyer, indigo quilts and Turkey Red quilts always steal my heart. From this challenge, I'd like to learn a new technique or a new block. The feathered star might be the ticket!

Feathered Star, c.1840-1860, found in eastern Ohio; cottons, pieced, with stuffed work and cording, 82 1/2" x 91". Collection of Gail Binney.

Hawaiian Quilts make me weak in the knees. They're always stunning, and they certainly speak to my love of paper cutting. What I'm most curious to try is echo hand quilting. So beautiful.Unnamed pattern, c. 1940, Hawaii; cottons, appliqued, 81" x 85…

Hawaiian Quilts make me weak in the knees. They're always stunning, and they certainly speak to my love of paper cutting. What I'm most curious to try is echo hand quilting. So beautiful.

Unnamed pattern, c. 1940, Hawaii; cottons, appliqued, 81" x 85". Robert and Ardis James Collection.

https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/feb/23/marie-kondo-joy-decluttering-waste-recycling-clothes-peak-stuff

https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2016/feb/23/marie-kondo-joy-decluttering-waste-recycling-clothes-peak-stuff

In addition to pushing one's own creative limits, there's a second element to Sherri Lynn's challenge, and that is increasing one's awareness of the huge problem the world is facing regarding fabric, landfills and our soil and water supply.

Overconsumption is a problem for us all. As a quilter, if the making of even one quilt can begin to affect change, then I'm all in. Every effort counts! Recently, I posted about how each piece of cloth is handled here in the studio, and the truth is, every scrap is accounted for. None of it goes in the trash. 

100% of my quilt making scraps over the past 22 months, and all of it is safe for my compost bin.

100% of my quilt making scraps over the past 22 months, and all of it is safe for my compost bin.

I'll post my #MakeDoQuilt updates here and on my IG feed. Do you have any questions for me? Are you participating, too? Let's get some conversation going, and I'd love to hear and see how you're meeting the #MakeDoQuilt Challenge!

The Westwater Tunic

My tunic is linen with my own eco-dyed silk at the back yoke (detail, right). Do you see a butterfly/ moth? The drape and weight of linen makes it a nice choice for this garment. The tunic can be worn so many ways, it's a real wardrobe work horse! Sam gives options for handling View A's front closure. I chose the one-button closure.

While at Squam, my tunic didn't actually have a button. At home, I tried both antler and horn buttons from my stash, but they all felt too masculine. Who saved the day? Sarah Waldo Jagger! While sewing in her class at Squam, she came over to my side and held out the perfect button, explaining that she found it at the bottom of her sewing basket. That's Squam love right there. Thank you Sarah! 

In the months leading up to Squam Art Workshops, Elizabeth Duvivier announced the release of the Westwater Tunic pattern co-designed by herself and Samantha Lamb. I bought my copy, chose my fabrics and eagerly set to work. 

I loved the process and the end result so much that I decided to bring my finished tunic to Squam and show Elizabeth and Samantha.

They were both so kind, and made me feel good about my work. Personally, I credit Sam for her exceptional technical writing, not to mention loads of helpful photos. The collar (which I had been fearing) was actually a breeze! I would definitely make this garment again, and would try View B, which is a pull over rather than button front.

In this time of indie designers, social media and movements like #whomadeyourclothes, being able to connect one-on-one with the designer is important. For me personally, meeting the designer makes the process and the finished piece even more meaningful, bringing me closer to the garment.        

I'm especially grateful to Elizabeth Duvivier for creating Squam Art Workshops, a most magical, soul-filling experience deep in the woods of New Hampshire. 

Zero Waste

Every bit of fabric is accounted for in the cutting process.

Every bit of fabric is accounted for in the cutting process.

Zero waste has been a guiding force since the inception of my dye business. To be able to follow my fabrics as much as possible from field to compost is important to me. I feel closer to my fabrics by handling much of the process myself, and the work is rewarding and satisfying.

Living in this high-speed, high-tech modern world, I depend on hand work (and books and movies!) for balance. My personal pursuits are mainly quilting for charity, sewing bags and garments, spinning yarn and knitting. Wow, that sounds like I have mounds of spare time. Trust me, I don't, because the bulk of my time is happily spent between the dye house and studio. 

Because I imagine most of you purchase fabric and dive right in to your projects, I thought describing the cutting process for each yard, once dyed and pressed, might be interesting.  

We hand cut for three reasons:  

  • We're small. No fancy commercial equipment here.
  • We can control and monitor each and every piece of fabric going into your hands. 
  • We get the most from every piece; minimizing waste & maximizing goodness for you!
Pre-cuts are so convenient. We hand cut and inspect each and every one!

Pre-cuts are so convenient. We hand cut and inspect each and every one!

First up on the cutting table are yardage, fat quarters, fat eighths, charms and strips. These cuts use up most of the yard, and make my heart skip a beat considering the possibilities. So often I wonder, "What will you become?" "Who's heart will you melt?"

Looking at a pile of scraps is like looking at a jar of candy - they're irresistible!

Looking at a pile of scraps is like looking at a jar of candy - they're irresistible!

The next category to be cut is scraps. Neatly cut scraps, shown above, are weighed and then carefully bundled into 4.5 oz. bags. My Type-A personality won't let an untidy piece make it into the pile! Treating every step in the process with respect matters. The scraps are useful sized pieces for quilters, doll makers, sewers, miniaturists and fabric artists. Our scrap bags feel like a party in a bag - a joyful surprise!

Calling all EPPers, miniaturists and doll artists! Our "smalls" are waiting for you.

Calling all EPPers, miniaturists and doll artists! Our "smalls" are waiting for you.

The next category to be cut is "smalls". Pieces that are too small for the scrap bag, but are just the right size for EPP, postage stamp quilts, miniature quilts, doll artists and the like. Handled with the same respect as the previous cuts, each piece is visually inspected, neatly cut and ensured to be a useful size. Shown above is a pile of "smalls" beneath a few EPP stars (top right) and a stack of gray and yellow pieced blocks for hexis. 

A lovely mess, and not a twinge of guilt as it's taken to the compost pile. 

A lovely mess, and not a twinge of guilt as it's taken to the compost pile. 

The final stop for every yard of fabric is the trimmings. They perform a variety of jobs from doll stuffing to tying wrapped packages, and are eventually added to the compost pile. Because our fabrics are certified organic cotton and free of harmful mordants, they're completely safe for the compost pile. 

To appreciate every last bit of beautiful cloth is a responsibility we easily accept. You can find our hand dyed fabrics and quilt patterns in the shop. Patterns are offered as both PDF's and kits. In future posts, I'll describe my dye process and quilt design process. In the mean time, I'd love to hear your thoughts and questions about our organic, naturally dyed fabrics. 

Debut

Your holiday sewing is about to become a decadent experience! Coming to the shop this Monday is a lovely addition to our organic offerings: Fat Quarter bundles! 

A bundle has four naturally dyed, certified organic cotton FQ's. Each bundle is truly one of a kind, saturated with earthly hues. Indigo bundles will also be available. We're anxious to reveal our first wave of colorful bundles to enhance and inspire your sewing projects, or give as gifts to your best friends. How ever you'll use them, you don't want to miss Monday's big debut!

Welcome!

Hello and welcome to the blog's inaugural post! 

This is the place for inspiration, news, quilting, sewing and dyeing tips, useful information and many other surprises!      

YOU are the reason we come to work every day, and we encourage you to visit here regularly, leave us comments, pin images that inspire, and otherwise kick back and enjoy all the good stuff to come.

Tierney Barden is an eco-company that specializes in naturally dyed certified organic cotton fabrics and charming quilt kits. Yardage will soon be available for sewing enthusiasts, quilters and any artist working with fiber. 

Thanks again, and we'll see you here soon!

                                   Wander into the woods.

                                   Wander into the woods.